Eating in Istanbul: The Places That Actually Deliver
It's easy to get Istanbul wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning, when I tried to order a simit on the Galata Bridge, only to be handed a slice of pizza from a vendor who clearly thought I was a tourist who didn't know what a simit was. I had to laugh—it's a small moment, but it taught me that Istanbul isn't just about the iconic sights; it's about the little moments where locals and tourists cross paths, sometimes hilariously. After that, I decided to dig deeper. I started my day at Çiya Sofrası, a beloved spot in the Kadıköy district, where the owners have been serving traditional Anatolian dishes for over 20 years. I went for their signature dish, the "Çiya's Chicken with Sumac," which costs 45 TL (about $2.50) and comes with a side of fresh bread and pickled vegetables. The chicken is slow-cooked with a tangy sumac rub that makes it tender and flavorful. I sat at a small table outside, watching the boats glide along the Bosphorus, ...